The research for this knitwear project is inspired by birdwatching. In particular the local winter bird waxwing (Tilhi) gave inspiration for this project: How do these birds keep warm during the cold months? Birds often puff up their feathers in the colder months – particularly when sitting still – this created small pockets of air between their feathers that create the classic thermos effect. For the knit piece using a double-knit structure allows for a similar effect: Two knitted structures are combined using one yarn in between to connect the two. This not only allows for more air pockets but also enables the use of two materials. To increase the thermo-regulating, effect of the garment one side of the knit structure uses wool and the other linen. When being in nature as an observer your clothing needs to adjust to different activities — walking and moving around for periods but then also standing still for some time. Working with the opposing material properties of the wool (warming) and linen (cooling) the structure is meant to support the different activities during nature observation. The structure is also meant to be worn from both sides depending on what is needed or personal preference. Further ventilation is created using pointelle structures, creating patterns to fit aesthetics but also functionality of the garment. The yarn of the project was dyed naturally using walnut husk powder and an iron mordant. Even though you can never really predict exact colour outcomes when dyeing with plants the final colour matches the inspiration bird quite well. The knit collection also dabbles into accessories that could be useful when spending long periods outside. Inspired by my granddad’s portable outdoor stool, the inlay sample of the knitwear collection is meant as a potential seat cover for that structure. Due to the inlay the knit structure becomes less stretchy making it easier to use for upholstery and sturdier pieces.
Photo by Danyi Liu who kindly showed me around the Helsinki bird watching spots
fabric samples
Dyeing Cashwool yarn with walnut husk powder and iron mordant
Thumb hole detail
Reversible knit piece: Top worn inside out
APEX FIZ RENDERS OF THE FINAL KNIT PIECE
OUTSIDE FRONT NATURALLY DYED WOOL
OUTSIDE BACK NATURALLY DYED WOOL
INSIDE FRONT LINEN
